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November Edition | NUVIOR Canada Ingredient of the month | Tranexamic acid

What Is Tranexamic Acid

 

Tranexamic acid is an exciting topical ingredient to fade the look of several types of skin discolorations. Research shows tranexamic acid has the ability to prevent the growth of new blood vessels and the formation of melanin (aka skin pigment). This might be why topical tranexamic acid appears to help lighten dark spots from hyperpigmentation, melasma, or sun damage.

How It Works

Tranexamic acid seems to have a special ability to interact with an enzyme in skin known as plasmin and its precursor, plasminogen. Skin’s surface cells develop excess plasmin in response to radiation exposure like ultraviolet light from the sun and tanning salons. The excess plasmin triggers other substances in skin’s surface that in turn stimulate excess melanin production in skin’s lower layers, which eventually shows on the surface. Tranexamic acid works so well because it is able to interrupt multiple pathways related to surface discolorations.

Benefits Of Tranexamic Acid

The skin barrier, or outermost layer of your skin, serves as a shield that helps keep moisture in and toxins and irritants out. For people living with rosacea research suggests this barrier is often damaged to the point where it doesn’t work properly. Tranexamic acid’s ability of strengthening the skin barrier helps significantly reduce rosacea symptoms.

Tranexamic acid for the skin can act as a brightening agent to reduce dark spots and improve hyperpigmentation. It prevents the appearance of dark spots by removing the excess melanin formed. Tranexamic acid does this by blocking the hormones that cause pigment in the skin.

When used regularly, tranexamic acid helps minimise freckling due to spending too much time in the sun, which develops as part of the natural ageing process of the skin. Sometimes, acne breakouts can cause post-inflammatory erythema. These are stubborn red, pink, or purple patches of discoloration. Tranexamic acid appears helpful for lessening the appearance of these lesions, with little risk of serious side effects.

Tranexamic acid has shown to effectively soothe swelling from hereditary anjiodema a condition characterized by swelling round the eyes, lips, hands, and feet. However, more research is needed to know if it could dial down general redness or puffiness.

Fun Fact

Tranexamic acid plays well with pretty much any ingredient and it’s pregnancy-safe. Many dermatologists even recommend it as a treatment for pregnancy-induced melasma (also referred to as the “mask of pregnancy”).

Food Sources

Tranexamic acid comes from the amino acid lysine. Good sources of lysine include foods that are rich in protein, such as:

  • Meat, specifically red meat, pork, and poultry.
  • Cheese, particularly parmesan.
  • Certain fish, such as cod and sardines.
  • Eggs.
  • Soybeans, particularly tofu, isolated soy protein, and defatted soybean flour.
  • Spirulina.
  • Fenugreek seed.

Our Skincare Top Picks

Melan tran3x concentrate

Pigment control agent for daily use that acts on excess epidermal pigmentation by reducing the formed melanin and visibly reducing dark spots. Its ultra-light texture allows you to apply it before your usual cream.

Indicated for reducing pigmentation imperfections of any origin. This solution is safe for all skin types and is suitable after professional pigment control treatments (cosmelan/ dermamelan, IPL, laser, chemical peels, etc.), to boost and maintain results, and prevent pigmentation from rebounding.

Active ingredients: tranexamic acid, enzymacid complex, niacinamide, tyr control complex

Best for: hyperpigmentation 

Melan tran3x gel cream

Pigment control cream for daily use that acts gradually on epidermal dark spots to give a more uniform skin tone. It inhibits the mechanisms responsible for pigmentation to prevent the appearance of dark spots and stop them from reappearing. Quickly absorbed light gel cream texture.

Indicated for reducing pigmentation imperfections of any origin. It is safe for all skin types and suitable to use after professional pigment control treatments (cosmelan/dermamelan, IPL, laser, chemical peels, etc.), to boost and maintain the results and prevent pigmentation in the future.

Active ingredients: tranexamic acid, tyr control complex, niacinamide, marine glycogen, hydroxiacid complex

Best for: hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone

October Edition | NUVIOR Canada Ingredient of the month | Alpha-arbutin

What Is Alpha-arbutin

 

Arbutin is a naturally occurring substance found in plants such as bearberry, cranberry and mulberry that inhibits the development of melanin (the pigment that creates skin colour). Alpha-arbutin is a chemically synthesized variant of plant extract used as a topical skin brightening agent to treat dark spots, pigmentation, and scars caused by UV exposure and breakouts. It also contains antioxidants, which help to protect the skin from UV rays. It’s a common ingredient in anti-ageing creams, along with retinol, to cure age spots, fine lines, and wrinkles.

How It Works

Arbutin stops any extra production of melanin (the pigment that creates skin color). Melanin is produced when an enzyme called tyrosinase makes the amino acid tyrosine, and then the tyrosine gets passed off to cells called melanocytes that convert the tyrosine into melanin. Arbutin disrupts this chain of events by telling tyrosinase to pause on the tyrosine production – without tyrosine, melanocytes have nothing to work with which limits the melanin production in your skin. So there you have it: less tyrosine and less melanin means less pigment, less dark spots, and a more even complexion. 

Benefits Of Alpha-arbutin

By inhibiting tyrosinase activity, alpha-arbutin is known to reduce melanin production in the skin. Tyrosine and melanin levels are lower, which means reduced pigmentation, black patches, and a more even skin tone. Alpha-arbutin can be used to diminish age spots, post-blemish redness and acne. It helps to make you free from freckles or liver spots if you have them.

If your skin is dry and flaky, you can fundamentally profit from arbutin’s effective use. It secures and supports the skin, giving you a smoother, youthful look. Arbutin holds sun protection properties as well since it inhibits the formation of tyrosinase, which causes the skin to darken after exposure to the sun.

Arbutin evens and brightens your complexion making your skin look healthier and vibrant. It can be thought of as a beauty blender – except instead of blending out with foundation, arbutin is literally blending out your actual skin.  It also addresses sugar-induced skin sallowness (yellowness) and loss of elasticity.

For more severe hyperpigmentation and melasma, hydroquinone has traditionally been the ingredient of choice due to it’s strength, but the hydroquinone often used in skin care products is synthetic, aggressive, and can badly damage the skin if used incorrectly (like permanently damage the skin with blueish/greyish splotches). Arbutin is a much safer, more natural derivative of hydroquinone, and topical application of arbutin has been shown to treat melasma as well as severe dark areas. All the power without the bad side effects.

Fun Fact

Alpha-arbutin is great ingredient to be used in combinations.

  • Alpha-arbutin + vitamin C – helps enhance skin glow and even skin tone
  • Alpha-arbutin + niacinamide – both water-based actives form a lightweight skin perfecting duo
  • Alpha-arbutin + ferulic acid –  helps eliminate hyperpigmentation faster and more effectively

Food Sources

Alpha-Arbutin occurs naturally in several different plant species.

Plants with the highest known concentrations are bearberry and mulberry.

It is also found in blueberry, cranberry, wheat, and pear varieties.

Our Skincare Top Picks

Radiance

Radiance gently exfoliates the skin and restores the skin’s radiance thanks to the synergy of high-performance acids and lightening agents in optimal concentrations. For dull complexion, uneven skin texture and skin tone. Fragrance free.

Active Ingredients: kojic acid, arbutin, niacinamide, salicylic and mandolin acids

Best for: homogenized complexion, reduction of pigment spots, skin luminosity

Yellow cream

Yellow Cream targets and reduces the appearance of dark spots thanks to optimally concentrated lightening agents associated with the exfoliating action of glycolic and salicylic acids. For dark spots, skin imperfections and irregular complexion. Fragrance free.

Active Ingredients: kojic acid, alpha-arbutin, licorice extract, modus alba extract, glycolic and salicylic acids

Best for: dark spots reduction, even complexion

September Edition | NUVIOR Canada Ingredient of the month | Peptides

What Are Peptides

 

Peptides, also called polypeptides, naturally occur in the skin, but they’re also included in many skincare products — and for good reason.

Peptides are amino acids that make up certain proteins needed by the skin. More specifically, collagen is made of three polypeptide chains, so adding peptides can stimulate your skin to produce collagen. More collagen can lead to firmer, younger-looking skin. The human body produces collagen naturally but over time its production decreases which is why it is important to stimulate its restoration.

How They Work

At their core, peptides are chains of different types of amino acids, like glycine, arginine, histidine. Peptides in skincare products are designed to boost and replenish amino acids, which are the building blocks for collagen production. Since amino acids are the smallest unit of a protein, peptides are able to mimic another type of protein, collagen. And compared  to topical collagen peptides also have a much smaller particle size and can actually be absorbed into your skin.  

Benefits Of Peptides

As it has been noted, several types of peptides are able to enhance collagen production. They do this by acting as messengers in the skin, signaling your cells to produce more collagen, elastin, and keratin.

The skin barrier is the body’s line of defense against bacteria, ultraviolet rays, pollution, and other toxins. The skin barrier can be damaged from over-exfoliation, exposure to cigarette smoke and other pollution, or even poor sleep. Peptides help build up a stronger barrier. 

Peptides can enhance the plumpness of skin and lips. When skin is firmer and plumper, wrinkles and fine lines become less visible. In addition to collagen, peptides also make up elastin fibers, another type of protein. These fibers make skin look firmer and tauter. Some peptides also have evidence of easing inflammation, repairing damaged skin, and evening out skin tone.

Some clinical data suggests that certain peptides are capable of inhibiting aging-related enzymes in the connective tissues of our skin that break down collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid (all of which can be very helpful in preventing and treating aging-related signs!). Given all of the above, peptides can help you at any stage of your healthy aging skincare journey. If you are interested in helping your skin act younger for longer, peptides are an excellent ingredient to fold into the arsenal. 

Fun Fact

Peptides are also major helper when it comes to improving the condition of your hair. Scalp inflammation can negatively affect the growth of your hair, leading to hair thinning and hair loss. Since peptides target and heal inflammation, they’re a great addition to any hair (or lash care) product.

Food Sources

Keep in mind that peptides are naturally found in many foods, including:

  • Meat
  • Fish and shellfish
  • Beans and lentils
  • Soy
  • Oats
  • Flaxseed
  • Hemp seeds
  • Wheat

Our Skincare Top Picks

Regen Ceutic

Regen Ceutic nourishes and firms the skin thanks to its peptides complex. The addition of hyaluronic acid and powerful antioxidants boosts the skin’s natural power to protect and repair itself. Prevents signs of skin aging. For aged and dry skin. All skin types. Fragrance-free.

Active Ingredients: 3% peptides complex, 3% hyaluronic acid solution, vitamin C ester & vitamin E, shea butter

Best for: skin restoration and protection, anti-aging effect 

stem cell nano filler lip contour

The first filling effect cream based on plant stem cell extract and hyaluronic acid specifically designed for the treatment of the delicate lip contour area. This unique combination acts synergistically and provides a twofold effect: regenerator (the plant stem cell extract stimulates collagen and elastin production, prolonging cell life) and filler (hyaluronic acid fills the thinner areas, providing support to the cells created).

Active Ingredients: hyaluronic acid, plant stem cell extract

Best for: cell regeneration, improving skin quality, texture, and look of the lips and surrounding skin

August Edition | NUVIOR Canada Ingredient of the month | Hyaluronic Acid

What Is Hyaluronic Acid

 

Hyaluronic acid, also known as hyaluronan, is a clear, gooey substance that is naturally produced by the body. The largest amounts of it are found in the skin, connective tissue and eyes. Its main function is to retain water to keep tissues well lubricated and moist. Over time, body’s stores of hyaluronic acid decline. Age is one reason, but other factors, such as smoking and air pollution, also accelerate this process. The good news is that topical products that feature hyaluronic acid can help rebuild those depleted stores.

How It Works

Hyaluronic acid attracts and binds to water molecules and increases the water content of the skin. Poorly hydrated skin is unable to maintain an appropriately intact skin barrier, leaving the skin more vulnerable to damage from external and environmental sources. Skin aging is associated with loss of skin moisture, and hyaluronic acid is the key ingredient when it comes to combating or reversing these signs.

Benefits Of Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid acts as humectant which means it will continue to draw in and hold onto moisture after it is collected. Humectants allow hydrogen bonding and attract water. Over time, this can help slow down the the deterioration of the lipid barrier and help protect and fortify it.

When the lipid barrier is further enhanced and protected by hyaluronic acid, the skin is better able to defend itself against environmental age-factors and pollutants. When it’s not fighting these toxins, the skin remains less wrinkled, brighter, and bouncier longer. Hyaluronic acid is not going to replace elastin but, it can help with the appearance of tightness in the skin.

As it fills the skin with moisture, hyaluronic acid tightens the overall complexion. It helps firm facial contours for a more youthful appearance. Moreover, hyaluronic acid helps reduce the visibility of fine lines and wrinkles retaining moisture to the skin, creating a plumping effect. When the skin is protected and hydrated, increased skin cell production can take place, as the skin isn’t busy fighting for hydration. This leads to smoother, plumper skin cells.

Hyaluronic acid also helps promote skin cell regeneration by offering extra hydration and barrier protection to the skin. This naturally leads to healthier cells and a more vibrant complexion. And when there is increased cell turnover it helps reducing and preventing age spots and pigmentation issues.

Fun Fact

When oily skin is stripped of hydration it overcompensates to hydrate the skin by producing oil. A big misconception is that oily and acne prone skins don’t need hydration, but in fact, they do. By promoting proper moisture balance in the skin, hyaluronic acid prevents the over-production of oil that clogs pores and causes breakouts.

Food Sources

Hyaluronic acid can be found in certain foods. Plus, some of them provide nutrients human body uses to boost hyaluronic acid production. Here are 7 healthy foods that are high in hyaluronic acid or its building blocks:

  • bone broth
  • oranges
  • tofu
  • kale
  • almonds
  • edamame (a type of immature soybean)
  • sweet potatoes

Our Skincare Top Picks

Hyal Ceutic

Hyal Ceutic intensively hydrates and protects the skin all day long thanks to an optimal concentration of high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acids. A combination of powerful ingredients including aloe vera enhances its soothing and repairing action. Prevents signs of skin aging. Anti-pollution action. For dehydrated skin and the first signs of skin aging. All skin types, ideal for oily to combination skin. Fragrance-free. Hypoallergenic.

Active Ingredients: 5.5% hyaluronic acid solution, 10% aloe vera extract solution, jojoba oil, vitamin E ester, shea butter

Best for: Providing non-oily, long-lasting hydration. Suitable for all skin types, including oily/acne-prone.

ha densimatrix

Intensive concentrate that combines hyaluronic acid in several molecular structures for penetration at different levels. Provides anti-aging, plumping and filling action. Suitable for all types of skin. It contains ha densimatrix complex, a combination of HA (cross-linked, high, middle and low) for a long-lasting deep moisturizing. The action of anti-hyaluronidase complex protects from HA degradation and blocks the action caused by external aggressions. Antiaging pro complex promotes collagen and elastin synthesis to provide the skin with firmness and elasticity.

Active Ingredients: hyaluronic acid, anti-aging pro complex, anti-hyaluronidase complex

Best for: Perfect for all ages and suitable for all skin types! Give it a try ;).

July Edition | NUVIOR Canada Ingredient of the month | Glycolic Acid

What Is Glycolic Acid

 

Glycolic acid is a water-soluble alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that’s widely used for anti-aging, hyperpigmentation, dryness, and acne. AHAs are natural acids that come from plants. They consist of tiny molecules that are very easy for skin  to absorb. This makes them ideal for smoothing fine lines, improving skin texture, and other anti-aging uses.

How It Works

Glycolic acid works by speeding up cell turnover.  In other words, it dissolves the bonds that hold skin cells together. As a result, the skin is able to shed dead cells more quickly than it would on its own. Glycolic acid also triggers skin to produce more collagen. Collagen is the protein that makes skin firm, plump, and elastic, and using glycolic acid everyday can help to prevent the breakdown of collagen. Glycolic acid also gives bones and connective tissues their strength.

Benefits Of Glycolic Acid

Considered the golden standard of AHAs, glycolic acid’s keratolytic properties exfoliate dead skin cells from the skin’s surface. This exfoliation helps to reduce existing fine lines and wrinkles, fade hyperpigmentation, and clear acne. 

Derived from sugarcane, glycolic acid is also a humectant meaning it has the chemical ability to draw moisture to itself. This means glycolic acid draws moisture to newly exfoliated skin which, when used correctly, not only hydrates dry skin, but also prevents new fine lines and wrinkles.

Glycolic acid treatment is very popular for its ability to improve complexion. When used regularly, glycolic acid helps to brighten the skin and achieve a more even skin tone. Glycolic acid is also great at preventing ingrown hairs, comedones, blackheads, and inflamed breakouts.

Another amazing property of glycolic acid is its ability to minimize discoloration. This includes acne scars, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and in some cases melasma (if used in conjunction with other proper pigment inhibiting actives). Long-term use of glycolic acid can help reduce pigmentation in the skin by exfoliating away skin cells loaded with melanin, which are then replaced with newer, more evenly pigmented cells.

Fun Fact

Glycolic acid’s molecules are the smallest and lightest of all AHAs, so they’re able to penetrate the skin more easily. Using even a low concentration (three percent or lower) can yield results. With continuous use, glycolic acid can reduce the appearance of wrinkles, improve uneven skin tone, and lessen breakouts, leading to younger- and healthier-looking skin.

Food Sources

A common source of glycolic acid is sugarcane, the main uses of sugarcane are as refined sugar, molasses, rum, and a type of syrup used as flavoring. Sugar beets are also a good source of glycolic acid. Boiling shredded beets for several hours, then pressing the mash until you’ve extracted a liquid resembling the consistency of honey, produces the syrup. Unripe grapes, cantaloupes, pineapples, tomatoes, sour milk, and papaya contain glycolic acid as well.

Our Skincare Top Picks

Light Ceutic

Light Ceutic gently exfoliates the skin and reduces the appearance of pigment spots, thanks to the combined action of glycolic acid, phytic acid, and vitamin C. This exfoliation process allows the skin to naturally regenerate overnight. Suitable for all skin types.

Active Ingredients: 8% glycolic acid solution, 4% phytic acid solution, vitamin C complex

Best for: irregular and dull complexion

Turn Over

Turn Over reduces signs of skin aging by removing dead cells. Its highly concentrated glycolic acid solution supports the skin’s natural turnover to reduce the appearance of loss of skin tone, wrinkles, and fine lines. Suitable for all skin types. Fragrance free.

Active Ingredients: 15% glycolic acid solution

Best for: loss of skin tone, wrinkles, and fine lines

June Edition | NUVIOR Canada Ingredient of the month | Urea

What Is Urea

Urea, otherwise known as hydroxyethyl urea or urea 40, is a natural component present in the epidermis and makes up 7% of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), which functions to keep skin lovely and plump. Urea’s properties are remarkable. It can help maintain a healthy moisture balance at low percentages, while higher percentages encourage cellular turnover bringing a luminous quality to the skin. However, like many natural compounds, the presence of urea in the skin decreases with age resulting in skin dehydration and inflammation. Incorporating urea into your skincare routine can help to prevent these issues.

How It Works

The outer layer of the skin, the epidermis, can be divided into five sublayers. The outermost sublayer, the stratum corneum, keeps unwanted molecules from entering the body and prevents water loss through the skin. The water-retaining property of the stratum corneum largely comes from a group of substances known as natural moisturising factors (NMFs). Among these NMFs is urea. Urea is used in a variety of skin care products to target general skin dryness or medical conditions associated with dry or itchy skin. Urea can also help exfoliate dead skin buildup and may help target fungal infections.

Benefits Of Urea

Hydration is the key to soft, smooth, and healthy skin. Urea is known for being a powerful humectant that attracts moisture from the environment and seals it into the skin. Regular application of a product containing urea can improve skin’s water retention ability.

Formulations containing urea were also found to significantly improve skin barrier function. It provides skin with better protection from external harm.

Topical application of the ingredient is also believed to accelerate the process of skin renewal. This, in turn, may help maintain your skin barrier and protect your skin from external environmental elements.

Urea can be an excellent exfoliant as well.  Due to its keratolytic properties, it helps remove the excess skin produced by the epidermis. It is mandatory to regularly remove the dead skin cells from the skin surface. Urea does a great job at it as an exfoliant and may soften dry, rough skin.

Fun Fact

Urea may have anesthetic properties. Anecdotal evidence suggests that urea can be used for pain relief in skin inflammation and painful flare-ups. Some studies also show that it can be combined with anti-inflammatory treatments to aid in the management of several skin conditions.

Food Sources

Urea can’t be found in natural food sources but urea oral supplements are used for hyponatremia treatment. Hypoantremia is a condition of low blood sodium levels. Taking urea helps to bring this level back to normal.

Our Skincare Top Picks

Advanced Cleanser

Advanced Cleanser effectively removes make-up, excess sebum, and skin impurities. After usage skin appears clean, purified, and hydrated. Suitable for daily cleansing and all skin types. 

Active Ingredients: Xylitol, Zinc PCA, Urea, Glycerin

Best for dry, sensitive, or normal skin and make-up removal

Purifying mousse

Daily cleansing foam for purifying and sanitizing skin types prone to acne and seborrhea. Its light texture and formulation, mainly based on glucosides and refreshing agents enables it to eliminate impurities from the skin, creating optimal conditions of softness and leaving behind a pleasant sensation of freshness.

Active Ingredients: Urea, Chlorhexidine, Salicylic Acid, and Lactic Acid

Best for combination or oily, acne-prone skin

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